The cliffs range in size from 100m to 300m. On the fringes of the Southern Cairngorms north of Dundee, in the Angus Glen of Glen Clova, lies a series of outcrops close to the road, but in a mountain setting. Route grades are in the mid range and the crag is 16m high. Use of the Ice Factor’s indoor Ice Wall (the largest in the world) in order to improve climbing technique and in case of bad weather. Just to the south on the Applecross peninsular are more sandstone blocks, perhaps aesthetically more pleasing than Torridon. This is probably the best easily accessible cragging area in Scotland, in one of Scotland’s most beautiful glens. Examples of some of the best would include the following: Ben Nevis is Scotland’s highest mountain. There is no shortage of multi pitch Rock Climbing in the Lake District. From climbing on the sea cliffs of Devon and Cornwall and the sea stacks of Scotland, ... teaching you all the skills you need to learn to lead climb outside and take on multi pitch climbing routes. Our professional Guides will show you the ropes... Rock Climbing. Also around this area are the two more remote crags of Binnien Shuas and Dirc Mhor. Last updated January 06 2021. To the north near Gairloch are a huge number of excellent gneiss crags ranging from 9m to 90m, offering all grades of route. There are numerous small crags varying in height between 8m and 90m that are low-lying and easy of access. There is a long a tedious walk-in but the area is exceptionally beautiful and is a special conservation site (SSSI and World Heritage Site). Grades range from VD to E6. The Cairngorm mountain ranges on the east side of Scotland contain large buttresses of clean granite similar to Arran. Scotland has many different types of rock offering a great selection of climbing styles as well as a variety of different venues. © 2021 Mountaineering Scotland to 7b+ grades. Beyond Ullapool lie numerous small outcrops, the most accessible being Ardmair. The Aztec Tower also now sports a few low-grade sport routes on metamorphosed sandstone. In the central and lowland areas are many quarries offering interest only to local gurus but many good natural outcrops exists. up to 350m high. It has a long tradition of climbing and has been the forcing ground for many of the advances in grades over the years. All rights reserved. And not forgetting the local forcing ground of Agassiz Rock near the Royal Observatory where hard traverses and multiple link-ups on overhanging andesite give anything up to V11. They are all on sandstone and grades range from 5 to 8c, they include Balmashanna Quarry, Ley Quarry near Forfar and Legaston Quarry near Arbroath. near Crieff; a 10m high escarpment of Dolerite with routes from 3+ to often dry when all around is wet. If you do go,a… If you still have skin left on your fingers, follow the road to the end at Reiff and visit the sea cliffs of Rubha Mor for hundreds more sandstone problems. The Corrie Boulders, some of which literally overhang the main road offer about 30 problems, mainly easy but with a few V7s. In Perthshire in the centre of Scotland and at the start of the Highlands there are many good venues. Up to six buttresses offer steep climbing from VD to E6, all facing south west. Further north towards Gairloch and Poolewe are stones galore, again on perfect sandstone, many just waiting to be discovered. Perfect Lewisian Gneiss up to 80m high with routes ranging from VS to E6 in one of the most beautiful settings in Scotland ensures its popularity. Mountaineering Scotland is a registered trademark of the Mountaineering Council of Scotland Limited, Our website uses cookies throughout our system and to help us provide a better service. Aonach Eagach, 4km: Moderate) and there are several ‘Gully’ climbs - a particularly esoteric activity involving climbing through waterfalls (e.g. In the remote boulder fields of Glen Rosa and Coire nan Ceum in North Glen Sannox are loads of granite boulders of varying sizes and offering all grades. In the south west at Laggantulloch and Meikle Ross are some strange greywacke cliffs offering adventurous climbing from V Diff to E4 up to 60m. For the introductory snow and ice climbing course you need good basic winter skills and the ability to use crampons and ice axe safely and effectively. There is something for everyone from beautiful sea cliffs at reiff to rugged mountain crags of stac pollaidh . Many are north facing and offer excellent winter but disappointing summer climbing. Route choice and avalanche avoidance. Joe Fraser Climbing is a small business, dedicated to delivering high quality climbing and mountaineering instruction. A lack of protection has led to top-roping and soloing being the popular ethic. On the west, on either side of Loch Lomond, north of Glasgow, are a series of small schist crags offering a range of mostly mid-grade sport climbs. Most of the information has only been available on the internet, but there is a guidebook being produced by Stone Country Press due in 2017. Orkney and Shetland in the far north offer some of the biggest cliffs Scotland Ben Nevis - 1 day Ben Nevis Highland Challenge The Remote Adventure SPAIN Intro to Multi-pitch sport climbing course Iceland Núpsstaðaskógar - Expedition Hard ice 1 - Course About us Blog Contact Essential Information Gallery Guides Some of the islands off the west coast of Scotland are Grades range from VD to E8 (watch this space for E13+!). There is a collection of quarries in the countryside around the city of Dundee which offer vertical, slabby or very overhanging climbs. This Snow and Ice Climbing Course will cover: Snow belays, rock and ice anchors; Multi-pitch climbing to Grade III The National Park area has a number of quality winter venues and routes. The routes are up to 150m in length, face west and dry quickly after rain. It describes over 1,700 routes across 11 different areas including Ben Nevis, Glen Coe and the Cairngorms. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. There are also long ridges which require scrambling and abseiling techniques (e.g. Dave, our instructor, did a great job. In the extreme North West is the huge mountain mass of Foinavon. The climbs are between 100m and 200m in height and routes range from Severe to E6. Furthermore, you’ll find here some of the best rock climbing areas in the UK.. Escaping from winter multi pitch climbs (including abseiling from a variety of anchors). This contains routes up to 300m ranging from Severe to E6. Our rock walls were designed following extensive consultation with the Mountaineering Council, a number of guides, instructors and mountain rescue teams. Sron Ulladale in Harris must be one of the most impressive cliffs in Scotland with numerous routes in the upper grades of E5-E7 on it’s overhanging flanks (there is little in the way of easier routes). Winter in Scotland is very specific, and changes familiar mountains into a surprising new landscape. The Anvil (a giant 15m boulder) has become second only to Dumbarton Rock for hard sport routes up to 8c, whilst Tighnabruaich offers permanently dry, upside down lines around the 8a grade. The rock is Rhyolite and offers fine climbing. In the UK we are blessed with a superb selection of multi-pitch climbs from the sea cliffs of the South West to the limestone of Yorkshire and the Peak District. Grades vary from VD to E7 and give some of the best mountain climbs in Scotland, particularly Creag an Dubh Loch which must be the best big mountain crag in the UK? In the North West of Scotland are numerous large cliffs. Near Torridon lies Diabaig. The majority of the climbs are on cliffs high up on the ridges of the mountains. This ticklist is a listing of all of the 3 and 4 star multi-pitch rock routes in Scotland, as described in the SMC guides. Grades range from 5+ but are mainly in the 7a to 7c categories. Almost 900 climbs on perfect gneiss are found on crags from 20m to 250m in height. In the centre of Edinburgh, within the historic Holyrood Park are Salisbury Crags with a whole bevy of easy to middle grade problems. The recently developed Rob’s Reed (near Forfar) offers the strange experience of climbing on conglomerate which sits on a sandstone base. They are qualified to lead and instruct on all aspects of Summer mountain use. It'sthen up to you to go and see for yourself. Multi Pitch Climbing 1:2 Ratio £200 full day With a range of rock types in the northwest highlands there is a variety of styles of climbing to choose from. Photo by Kevin Howett. There is much to go at here at all grades but be warned, the friction (or lack of it) on the dolerite will take some getting used to. are two further crags: Lower Lednock in the glen of the same name is a 28m high south east facing crag with exposed routes from 5 to 6b+. North again in the region around Tarbet and Scourie are recently developed slabs and geos of gneiss offering excellent adventurous routes in the lower grades, whilst the real gem in the extreme North West is Sheigra, offering a number of higher (50m) climbs, again on gneiss, from VD to E6. Further west of Comrie lies Lochearnhead and Glen Ogle. Deeper into the hills around Comrie Its northern face drops vertically over 2,000 feet (600m) in a series of complex corries, with the highest continuous wall directly under the summit. Another single boulder that was popular since the 1960s is The Narnain Stone high on the side of The Cobbler near Loch Lomond. awe-inspiring St John’s Head (the biggest) and Rora Head offering Old Red Sandstone climbs, mainly in the harder E grades; while other Hoy sea cliffs such as The Berry offer the extreme end in adventurous climbing.